Dugout or Panga?

My waterlogged memory cannot count how many times I’ve entered and exited boats on the two-week adventure across the equator. The boats included dugout canoes in the Amazon region of Ecuador as well as pangas and the luxurious Aggressor in the Galapagos. I may have lost track of the number, but I’ll always remember that each transfer to or from a boat was facilitated by the hands of a smiling Ecuadorian eager to share the natural heritage of the country.

Ecuador’s National Park system and naturalist programs encourage eco-tourism, though our Amazon guide preferred the term “responsible tourism.” Without our guides, all of whom demonstrated exceptional dedication to their jobs, we would have been lost, down the river or out to sea.

The trip started at the elaborately decorated Mansion del Angel bed and breakfast in Quito, the capital of Ecuador. After only one night there, we took a bus over the Andean Mountains while Romero, our guide, educated us on the sights and highlights of the route. The stop at thermal baths was a real treat and a welcome break from the bus. Imagine lying in a pool of fresh water heated by nearby volcanoes and gazing up at mountains and waterfalls. This was just the first water-related activity of the trip!

Our next stop was La Casa del Suizo (The Swiss Man’s House) near Tena, Ecuador in the Amazon River basin. A boat ride, the first of the trip, was required to get to the resort. When the road ended at the swiftly moving Rio Napo and we realized that all fourteen of us and our luggage would be loaded into two dugout canoes, the rough bus ride on gravel roads through the cloud forest wasn’t so intimidating.

We quickly learned that canoes are the best mode of transportation in the rain forest. They were used to carry us to a butterfly farm, a family fruit and vegetable farm, an animal rescue center, a women-owned pottery shop, and across the river to pan for gold. I almost forgot our other water transfer mechanisms - inner tubes and a native-made balsa raft.

Though we all enjoyed the open air dining, hammocks, colorful birds, bar and pool at the resort, it was obvious that we were a group of divers. Romero commented that whenever three or more of us were together, the conversation always turned to scuba.

Goodbyes were said to our new Amazon friends, and then we loaded back into the canoes to take us to the bus back to Quito so we could fly to the Galapagos. I will leave out the lowlights of rain and mudslides — because these are expected in the Amazon rain forest.

For most of us, the real trip started when the Aggressor crew met us at the San Cristobal Island airport where we took yet another bus to another boat ride. We thought we were loaded into zodiacs but soon learned the boats are called pangas.

Getting into a panga usually meant we were going on a land tour or to a dive site; each place held wonders not seen elsewhere in the world. My buddy mumbled repeatedly, “I’m here, I’m in the Galapagos” when observing the uniqueness of each island. Even the hard core divers, the ones that don’t miss a dive, found the plants and animals interesting.

Like our guide in the Amazon, our guide/divemaster Walter detailed the geology, history, biology, and culture of the Galapagos for us. We loved Walter’s accent and admired his 24/7 availability to answer questions and provide assistance. However, Walter’s real talent was underwater.

Before each dive we were briefed on what to expect, shown a diagram of the dive site, and given hints on how to react when the “big stuff” was found. Santiago, our other dive master and videographer, captured the highlights. Between the two dive masters, virtually every diver’s dreams of seeing the “big stuff” on the trip were fulfilled.

There are numerous documentaries that describe the Galapagos and plenty of coffee table books with incredible pictures to show your non-diving friends.

However, none of these capture the excitement and wonder of kneeling next to a napping sea lion, watching the mating dance of a blue-footed booby, being surrounded by dozens of schooling hammerheads, considering the surreal scowl of the red-lipped batfish, swimming with a “flock” of 20 spotted eagle rays, or trying to keep up with a whale shark.

Also it’s so much more exciting to look at your own pictures, whether they are publishing quality or not, and knowing you were there. ♦